Calee drops their take on a Type II and earns themselves an entry into the FTC archives.
One glance at this jacket you can see that it’s cool, no doubts there. But why does it deserve the “fuck that’s cool” monicker? Well, because jacquard. Jacquard? Yip, jacquard. No, but really whats jacquard?!?
If you must know
Ok, ok. I was trying to avoid that question because I am not quite sure I totally understand it myself. The basics are this. Jacquard is an automated method of weaving where you can create intricate patterns in the fabric. This method of weaving actually dates way back to 1801. It is an attachment that could be put on the looms of the time and using a series of punch cards, the loom would automatically create the pre-programmed pattern. It was a huge leap forward in tech. This was the first time that interchangeable punch cards were used to instruct a machine to perform automated tasks. It was a basic method of computer programming.
Deserving of the cool
Given that this method is still in use today, over 200 years later, I think that deserves to be called cool. Don’t you?
Mixing it up some more
But not satisfied with just using this old technique, the Calee boys mix up some dying techniques on the warp and weft yarns for an even more dynamic fabric. The warp is rope dyed, the method most commonly used in denim manufacture, and the weft is hank dyed. A much slower and more labour intensive process. This gives the end result an incredible character and depth as well as a beautifully soft hand. Combine this with the intricate pattern woven by the Jacquard loom and BOOM. You have something that slides into the FTC hall of fame easy.
Type II, through and through
To the jacket itself. It’s a Type II through and through. Boxy fit with a little more length to keep it contemporary. Two flap pockets on the chest. Pleated down the front and a cinch at the back. Calee branded hardware. Made in Japan of course. It’s nothing new and that’s the beauty of it. The trick when making something like this is to leave well alone with the classic cut and throw in something special like the fabric. All of a sudden you have something entirely new, entirely exciting. Entirely fucking cool.
For our Japanese readers, head over to the Calee site to snag one. For us stuck in Europe, Clutch Cafe in London has them up for grabs.