Another Fuck that’s cool on a denim jacket? Yip, because the Dutch denim brand Tenue have done the impossible.
When it comes to denim jackets we’re of the mind to leave the classics well enough alone. Take them, remake them, refine them but don’t try anything too new.
The Levi’s Type I through III, the Lee Rider and the Wrangler 124mj are classics. They are classics for a reason. Not much more can or should be done with a denim jacket because it’s all been tried. You can see this skimming the second-hand stores. Numerous evolutionary denim dead ends relegated to the euro rail and rightly so. These 5 classic styles won the evolutionary rat race and will eat anything nipping that their heals.
A punt at the classics
We are delighted when we see our favourite denim brands having a punt at the classics. TCB makes one of the most stitch for stitch perfect repros of every classic. 3sixteen’s take on the Type III is simply sublime and sublime in its simplicity. And the Calee Jacquard takes the boxy, very heritage style of the Type II and makes it a solid street piece by their choice of fabric. All these guys do it differently but don’t stray far from the source. Cause when you do… euro rail!
Tenue de Nîmes have done the impossible
Now, what’s all this been leading up to? Well, the boys over at Tenue de Nîmes have done something nigh on impossible. Frankensteined a few different styles together to create something new. And you know what? Fuck it’s cool!
Let’s break this down
I mean, if anyone was going to do it, it would be these guys. They live and breathe denim. Actually, they live and breathe menswear. Actually, they just live and breathe style. So let’s see if we can break this down.
In their own words:
“The Tenue. Fonda is our interpretation of one of the most iconic pieces of clothing ever; the riders jacket. The Fonda Midway is an updated version of our interpretation.”
The first Fonda
The first Fonda harked back to the first Wrangler jacket, the 11mj with a little of its successor, the 124mj thrown in. So we have the two flap pockets, the pleats but also slanted handwarmer pockets form the 124 and the pencil hole in the left pocket, nice shout guys! Tenue updated this with a modern fit and impeccable detailing.
The Fonda Midway
The Fonda Midway takes its cues from the Levi’s Type III. But you see the family resemblance here and there to the original Fonda. The flap pockets are decidedly Type III. Then there is the classic V shape that is hinted at by the seam running down from the pockets. More of a homage than a straight-on copy. Having only one seam instead of the traditional two allows them to keep the single pleats either side of the button closure.
It is balanced perfectly and avoids the danger of being too busy. Hidden, but hinted at by the contrast stitching are the handwarmer pockets. The pockets have a snap closure which is sure to lead to some fine fades when the jacket is worn in a little.
The details
Straight from the Type III playbook are the waist adjusters but TdN adds a little of their own flair with their logo embroidered on one side. This is echoed in the natural veg tanned leather patch sitting portrait on the rear hem.
Green Denim? No, the ‘Greenest Denim in the world!
Tenue turned to the Italians for the denim. Together with Candiani, legit the ‘Greenest Denim Mill on Earth’ they created a 13.5oz denim inspired by one from the 1980s. Oh, and it is of course and exclusive. Oh, and it is made from BCI cotton (Better Cotton Initiative) and is 100% microplastic free! So you can cop conscience clear.
The boys are on duty!
Right now, we are in the middle of a weird time in the human collective experience. So sadly swinging by the Tenue de Nîmes stores ain’t exactly prudent. BUT! The boys are on duty, packing up mail orders… and if you live within the city of Amsterdam, they will drop it right at your door… observing all the finer points of social distancing of course.
